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oceanBASIS: 10 years Protect the Ocean – Episode 3
Modder, machetes and magic - adventures in the coastal forest

 

The Protect-the-Ocean expedition to Côte d'Ivoire is coming to an end. Protect-the-Ocean is the marine conservation initiative of our natural cosmetics brand Oceanwell and is celebrating its 10th anniversary. The last leg of the expedition takes us to the coastal forest of Kablaké, which is sacred to the Krouman, a local ethnic group. It is part of the "MPA Grand Bereby" marine protected area.

When farewell smells of adventure – and the jungle

When it's time to say goodbye, things usually get particularly beautiful - or particularly wild. In our case: both. Because instead of spending the last few hours on the beach, we embark on an adventure that takes us into the jungle up to our knees.

After our encounters with the sea turtles (see Episode 1 The Queen of the Night) and the underwater world (see Episode 2 The Unknown Blue off Tabaloulé), we want to explore the primary coastal forest at the Dodo estuary - a rare remnant of tropical rainforest, characterized by salty air and wind from the ocean. It almost no longer exists. Only a few isolated patches of this "green lung" still exist - most have been cleared, plundered and disappeared. The Taï National Park in the north, home to pygmy hippos, forest elephants and chimpanzees, is an exception - and our destination is a comparatively small, hidden counterpart in the south.

 

With the Pirogue into the jungle
 

With a Fanti pirogue loaded with luggage, water canisters and ourselves, we sail across the ocean to the mouth of the river. The crew routinely maneuver through the surf - we, on the other hand, struggle with hard walls and shaky nerves. But we arrive. And off we go into the coastal forest.

An Ecoguard and the turtle brigade guide us – with machetes, broad grins and a lot of patience.

Fersensporn-Chamäleon

© Wolf Wichmann

A Graceful Chameleon (Chameleo gracilis) in the coastal forest

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“This trip was a promise – to this place. And to the ocean that connects everything.”

The path is muddy, the destination magical


The path? First muddy, then gone.
The forest? A living thicket of lianas, tree roots, mushrooms and prickly surprises.

We wade through black water, slide, swear and laugh. Our shoes squeak, our cameras are well packed and our balance is put to the test. Our mental resilience too: how well are we protected against parasites?

After a few hours, we reach a small clearing. There, in the middle of nowhere, is a Krouman settlement - with simple huts, cooking fires, goats, children, life.
 

This forest means life 
 

The way back is quieter. Perhaps because we are tired. Perhaps because we realize how much is at stake here. This forest is not just a biotope. It is a livelihood, a refuge, a climate protector. 

Back on the pirogue, while the sunset colors the sky and a few fishermen haul in their nets, we know: This trip was more than an expedition. It was a promise - to this place. And to the ocean that connects everything.

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The Oceanwell expedition team taking a break in the coastal forest

Wasserschlange

Smith's African water snake (Grayia smithii). Relatively widespread in tropical Africa, but rarely observed

© Oceanwell Expeditionsteam

You can find the full expedition report here.

The proposal for the marine protected area, with ecological and biological details on the Grand Béréby coast, is available as a PDF here.

Good to know that commitment pays off
 

"La Forêt Sacrée" (the sacred forest) near Kablaké Wapo has also become part of the Grand-Béréby Marine Protected Area (MPA) in Côte d'Ivoire thanks to our trip and documentation by Olaf Grell (see notes). This forest is one of the few remaining remnants of coastal forest in the country and is considered particularly worthy of protection. It is located near the western border of the protected area.

Dr Levent Piker

Dr Levent Piker

Co-Managing Director oceanBASIS

The Oceanwell expedition team consisted of marine biologists Dr. Inez Linke, Dr. Peter Krost, Dr. Levent Piker, Olaf Grell (†),and geologist and photographer Wolf Wichmann. A portion of the proceeds from Oceanwell natural cosmetics supports the marine conservation initiative „Protect the Ocean“ (PTO).

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